Visiting Elio Grasso
On April 15th, amidst the start of our week packed with visits and tastings, I found myself eagerly stepping into one of the most esteemed wineries nestled in the Barolo region, Elio Grasso, a name that resonates deeply with me as one of the wineries I admire the most in the region. It marked the beginning of our scheduled adventures, promising a journey through the rich tapestry of flavors waiting to be explored. Our guide for the day was Martina, a person of kind generosity and warmth, whose expertise in the wine industry added depth to our experience.
The Winery
As you arrive after a long driveway, you reach the gate, which opens quietly. You then drive a short distance down and suddenly find yourself in front of the beautiful house of Elio Grasso, with a breathtaking view over the region. From the moment we passed the gate, Martina's welcoming set the tone for the day. Her passion for the craft and her ability to articulate the essence of Elio Grasso's story enriched our understanding of the wines we were about to savor.
The story of Elio Grasso starts not in the winery, but in the city of Turin, where he had a successful career in banking. Fortunately, he decided to follow his passion and brought his young family back to the hills of Barolo. In 1978, Elio founded his winery in the township of Monforte, and the family has been instrumental in establishing Monforte d’Alba as one of the most esteemed sub-regions in Barolo. His son has now taken over and is the second generation leading the success of Elio Grasso's wines. However, Martina told us that Elio is still very much involved in the vineyards. "I hardly see him," she said. "He's always busy with the vineyards, monitoring what's happening, especially in these times of climate change and extreme weather conditions. We try to tell him that he should take it easy, but he absolutely does not listen to that advice haha."
As a producer, Elio Grasso has always respected tradition. Both the Barolo Gavarini Chiniera and the Barolo Ginestra Casa Matè are aged in large oak casks. Only the Barolo Riserva Runcot, produced exclusively in the best vintages, is aged in small French barrels. Innovation is represented by two other wines in the lineup: the finely barrel-aged Barbera Martina and the barrel-fermented Chardonnay, Educato.
The Visit
We began the tour in the same room where we would later do the tasting. When you arrive and walk toward the winery, you enter through a door on the left. That is where we started with Martina. From there, we went directly into the cellar behind the tasting room, where there are four large Slovenian oak barrels—two for Casa Mate and two for Gavarini Chiniera.
Next, we entered the old cellar, which used to store all the barrels. As it became too cramped, there was a need for expansion. However, building outwards would have meant sacrificing vineyard space, reducing production. So, Elio decided to dig. Over ten years, a tunnel spanning dozens of meters was excavated. This tunnel now houses the barrels for Langhe Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Runcot.
The tunnel is built in a small arch. At its end, doors open into the bottle room, which was almost empty because the new vintages had just been released and shipped. Only a few bottles of Runcot remained. In this room there was a closed and locked door that led us to the room of the family's private cellar, where they store various vintages in sizes ranging from standard bottles to 6-liter formats. From there, we returned to the tasting room. The layout forms a nice loop, perfectly connecting all the stages the wine goes through. Logistically, it is a brilliant design!
The Tasting
After the walk through the dug-out tunnel, we arrived in the tasting room at the entrance of the winery. The tasting was attentively led by Martina, who took her time to introduce us to the new vintages. It was conducted in a very relaxed and informal setting. We started the tasting with the winery's only white wine, the 100% Chardonnay Educato 2022. This wine is unique due to its beautiful balance of freshness and ripeness, reminiscent of a Burgundy Chardonnay. After tasting all the wines, we revisited the Educato. As it warmed to room temperature and had more exposure to oxygen, the wine truly came into its own! It revealed a unique texture of walnut, honey, fresh fruit, and elegance.
Next, we moved on to the red wines, tasting the Dolcetto d'Alba and Barbera d'Alba side by side. The Dolcetto was light, elegant, fruity, and not very complex—just as you would expect from a Dolcetto. However, I was somewhat surprised by the finish, which was relatively long and nicely rounded for a Dolcetto. Moving on to the Barbera, it was clear that this is a serious wine. Martina explained that Barbera is a highly esteemed grape in the region, yet it does not receive the attention it deserves in Europe. It had a lot of complexity on the nose, soft but present tannins, and definite aging potential for the next 8 to 10 years.
Next, we moved on to the Barolo's. Elio Grasso does not produce an entry-level Barolo but focuses on three single vineyards, with the Runcot only being made in the best vintages. We started with the Gavarini Chiniera, an elegant style of Barolo with soft, round tannins beautifully balanced with the wine. It had a complex nose, though not overwhelming—an elegant representation of their range. Then we tasted the Casa Mate. This wine immediately grabbed my attention as soon as I brought the glass to my nose. This is how I like my Barolo: powerful, with dark fruit, leather, earthy notes, and immediate complexity. It was evident that this wine was quite young and would need at least 10 years to fully open up. The tannins were more complex and robust.
To finish the tasting with a flourish, we sampled the newly released Runcot 2016. This wine is aged for 8 years, one year longer than usual for the Runcot. 2016 is recognized as one of the best years in the region, which is reflected in this wine. Compared to the 2013, it is much rounder, more accessible, and better balanced. An outstanding wine, it is clear why this is the flagship wine of the winery. The balance and harmony of this wine are remarkable—well done!
Tasting Notes
We had the pleasure of tasting almost their entire portfolio. Below, you will find the tasting notes provided for each wine by pressing on the link.
Educato 2022
Dolcetto d'Alba 2022
Langhe Nebbiolo 2021
Barbera d'Alba 2021
Gavarini Chiniera 2020
Ginestra Casa Mate 2020
Runcot Riserva 2016
